Steveston: Where the present rubs gills with the past
In 1877, when Manoah Steves selected a patch of rich, fertile land on Lulu Island next to the confluence of the Fraser River and the Gulf of Georgia, he did it with the hope that the site would ensure the prosperity of his family for generations. Here, the land was blessed with million-dollar views and a priceless location that enabled his family to farm and fish just steps from their front door. Steves’ son, William Herbert, took the dream one step further and developed the land into a town site that became known as Steveston. By the turn of the century, 
The Cannery is now a museum (Courtesy Tourism Richmond)Steveston was the busiest fishing port in the world with thousands of people including First Nations, Japanese, Chinese, Europeans and sailors jostling side-by-side on the boardwalks and saloons in a boomtown that boasted 15 canneries packing over 195,000 cases of salmon each year.
Today, over 100 years later, picturesque Steveston is one of B.C.’s oldest settlements; with nearly 600 seiners, gillnetters, trawlers and other boats that line the docks, it’s Canada’s largest commercial fishing fleet. And although the last cannery closed its doors years ago, Steveston has evolved from a working fishing port into a charming village that bursts with an authentic West Coast flavour making it one of the most treasured destinations in the Lower Mainland.
While boats and fishermen define Steveston’s old world charm, the best way to discover this seaside village is by foot. Meander the wooden planked Fisherman’s Wharf where waterfront restaurants beckon with fish and chips and old-fashioned ice cream parlours. With plenty of benches along the promenade, people-watching takes a backseat to wildlife viewing: observe eagles, seagulls and herons fishing nearby and seals bobbing in the harbour.
The Steveston docks ripple with fishing boats (Graham Osborne)
Dockside, an array of fishing vessels provide the opportunity to purchase fresh seafood from the fishermen themselves, ranging from prawns and salmon to halibut and scallops.
Or, stroll along the path towards Garry Point, home of the annual Steveston Sports Kite Competition. Casual and fine dining choices abound while gift shops and curios invite browsers of all ages. The annual July 1st Salmon Festival is highlighted by over 1200 pounds of salmon cooking over open firepits. And of course, there are hardware stores to purchase fishing tackle.
Fisherman s Needle at Garry Point Park
(Graham Osborne)
But the real heart of Steveston lies in its national historical sites, linked by a well-maintained dike trail from Garry Point to the village and beyond. The Britannia Heritage Shipyard provides visitors with a re-created community of canneries, boatyards and residences from yesteryear. The Gulf of Georgia Cannery, a fish canning facility that now operates as a museum, offers an entertaining West Coast experience that illustrates the days when it was the largest producer of canned salmon.
“Many people come here to find out about the fishing industry,” says Rob Hart, Marketing Coordinator for the Cannery. “But they’re often surprised at what’s inside. Because it’s a national historic site, it’s been upgraded meticulously to reflect the way the Cannery and Steveston once was.” The Cannery, built over the water on wood pilings, is a gorgeous restoration. Inside, there are murals of fish and trawlers, showcases full of Japanese glass net floats and model boats, and interactive fish tail exhibition drawers for children to pull out and ‘catch’ interesting facts about the fishing industry.
Big Red’s Tale
Big Red, a stray Irish setter, roamed Steveston for 10 years visiting merchants for food and companionship. When the SPCA picked him up for the fourth time, Cannery Row Café owner Ray Martyniuk asked the community for help in paying the $115 fine. Local merchants responded, donating $200 to cover the fine, a license and his own kennel at the Café. Big Red died of cancer in 1989 and his ashes were spread in Steveston Museum Park. Today, in the park, a granite water dish marks the town mascot’s memory. Big Red has found his home at last.
Other historic sites include the Steveston Museum and Post Office, and the ever-popular London Heritage Farm. The Murakami Visitor Centre—the 1885 home of a 12-member Japanese family where they built gillnetters during the winters—is an evocative reminder of the large Japanese population that has called Steveston home for over a century.
With a hopping whale watching industry that offers “guaranteed” killer whale sightings, Steveston has become known as “The Gateway to the Orca.” But whether its whales, sails, fishtails or even dog tales (see box) that lure people to the village, you can be sure that Steveston will be the catch of the day for another hundred years.
