North Vancouver – A rugged and magnificent playland

 

North Vancouver is a place where the suburbs and wilderness collide. Bracketed by mountains to the north and the Burrard Inlet to the south, and dissected by numerous rivers, it’s where Metro Vancouver comes out to play.

Capilano Suspension Bridge (Photo by
Tourism Vancouver)

Long before European settlers arrived, North Vancouver was home to the Tsleil-Waututh First Nation (Burrard Indian Band) and Squamish Nation who prospered on a land abundant with wildlife. It was the area’s natural resources that attracted the first European settlers who set up a sawmill in the early 1860s, just east of what is now Lower Lonsdale. With 90-metre Douglas Firs covering mountains and valleys and a deep harbour on the doorstep, logging was a lucrative industry. The township that grew up around the sawmill came to be known as Moodyville, which later grew into North Vancouver.

As the old growth forests were logged out at the turn of the 20th century, shipbuilding took its place. Demand for ships during and after World War I and World War II ensured the rapid expansion of North Vancouver. The shipbuilding industry survives today but the glory days are over with film, high-tech and tourism now important employers in the area.

North Vancouver has always been a destination for the wild and adventurous. In the late 1800s, when hiking first became popular at Grouse Mountain, day trippers would get off the ferry from Downtown Vancouver and hike through 8 metres of snow to reach the summit.

Grouse Mountain gondola
(Photo by Tourism Vancouver)

In the early 1930s, Group of Seven artist Fred Varley took to the wilds of Lynn Valley with his mistress. He may have been broke and drunk but he created a number of famous landscapes during that time including Bridge Over Lynn Canyon and Blue Ridge, Upper Lynn. A few years later, Malcolm Lowry, author of Under the Volcano, lived in a squatter’s shack with his actress wife in 1939 in Dollarton, near Deep Cove.

These days, mountain bikers head for the trails around Mountain Highway in upper Lynn Valley; skiers, boarders and snowshoers have a choice of Grouse Mountain or Mount Seymour, sea kayakers and canoeists head for Deep Cove while hikers can just go north to the temperate rainforests and pick up one of the numerous trails that range from easy to gruelling. Additional activities include dogsledding at Seymour, Nordic blading on the Seymour Trailway at Lynn Headwaters Park and paragliding on or near Grouse.

Lower Lonsdale from the water
(Photo by City of North Vancouver)

The hills of North Vancouver have also been a huge draw for Iranian immigrants. Legend has it that the North Shore Mountains resemble the Alborz Mountains that frame northern Tehran, making the area a natural home away from home for the many families who have settled here since the Iranian Revolution in 1979. Those who want a taste of Persian culture should head to Lonsdale Avenue aka Little Iran. It the best place to sample Persian cuisine. The avenue runs south to north through the middle of North Vancouver and is home to numerous Persian bakeries, delis, supermarkets and restaurants.

Centennial Theatre

Arts enthusiasts have plenty of options including year-round concerts and events at Centennial Theatre and excellent art exhibitions at Presentation House Gallery and Seymour Art Gallery in Deep Cove.

The first-growth forests may be long gone and luminous high-rises stand where shipyards once prospered, but the rugged heart of North Vancouver still beats strong.

Fun

 

Grouse Mountain
Grouse is just a 25-minute bus ride from the SeaBus terminal in Lower Lonsdale and a cable car that runs from the base makes access to ski runs, snowshoeing trails and ice-skating quick and easy. Worth the entrance fee on a clear day just for the fantastic views of Downtown Vancouver and Mount Baker.
www.grousemountain.com

Deep Cove
Small, beautiful and perfectly formed, this small artsy village hunkers around the cove providing pristine views of Indian Arm and surrounding mountains. It’s a favoured spot for sea kayaking and canoeing in the summer with rentals available on the waters edge.
www.deepcovekayak.com

Lynn Canyon Park & Lynn Headwater Regional Park
Highlights include the free suspension bridge, great river trails (including the Varley trail) and the 10-km paved Seymour Trailway.
www.dnv.org/ecology/rainforest/forest.html

Food

The Bakehouse
(1050 W. Queens Road, Edgemont Village)A five-minute drive from Grouse Mountain, this homey bakery cum restaurant is a local favourite and a great spot for brunch.

Thomas Haas Patisserie and Café
(Unit 128–998 Harbourside Drive, North Vancouver, 604.924.1847) Where serious chocoholics go to worship and devour. Sip on a cup of chili-spiced Aztec hot chocolate, pick up a pack of the world famous “Sparkle” cookies and enjoy the bustle.

Arm Reach Bistro, Deep Cove
(Photo by Alistair Knox)

Arms Reach Bistro
(107C–4390 Gallant Avenue, Deep Cove, 604.929.7442, www.armsreachbistro.com)
This fine dining bistro combines a cozy atmosphere with great views overlooking the waters of Deep Cove.

Lodging

Lonsdale Quay Hotel
(www.lonsdalequayhotel.com, 1.800.836.6111) Situated right on top of the Lonsdale Market complex, this hotel offers comfort and great views for visitors.

Thistledown House Bed and Breakfast Inn
(3910 Capilano Road, North Vancouver, 604.986.7173, www.thistle-down.com) Step back in time in this heritage mansion close to Grouse Mountain and Capilano Suspension Bridge.