The Black Olive: Where friendliness and fine food meet

Although situated in the heart of Victoria, The Black Olive restaurant feels more like a neighbourhood eatery than the downtown gem it is. A popular spot for locals and visitors alike, it offers West Coast-influenced Mediterranean fare and a very welcoming ambience.

My guest and I dine on an animated Wednesday night when owner Demetrios (or Paul, as he’s known to most) Psyllakis breezes table to table, Choice main: the delicious Roasted Six-
Bone Rack of New Zealand Lamb*wine glass in hand, chatting with guests. He is so convivial with his patrons that, at first glance, it appears the restaurant is full of regular customers. It’s not until the table beside us leaves and bids farewell that I realize they are from out of town and it’s their first time here.

With its cream linen tablecloths, amber light and soft black accents throughout, the room has a quiet elegance and relaxing atmosphere. The service is diligent and calm. Our server consults regularly with Paul about wine choices and he is happy to oblige, often getting up himself to open wine or mix drinks for guests. Paul sits with us and talks about his family here in Victoria and on his native island of Crete. His love of food is long-standing. He returns to Crete twice yearly, where he presses olive oil from trees owned by his family for centuries—the olive oil he uses in the dishes at his restaurant. His nephew has written three cookbooks about Greek traditional cookery and the healthy Mediterranean diet.

Owner Paul Psyllakis and his son Demetrius*My guest is a pescetarian and there are lots of options for her. To start, she chooses the Cioppino, a seafood bouillabaisse. I try a spoonful and am impressed with the delicate, smoky tomato broth. I opt for the Greek traditional starter of Saganaki with Greek Kefalotiri—a salad of warmed and slightly salty cheese, lemon, capers, artichokes and olive oil—which pairs nicely with my Pinot Gris from Chalet Estate Winery.

Paul chooses our dinner wine and to our delight he opens a bottle of Tall Poppy’s Petit Verdot from Australia. For mains we are tempted by the Mixed Grill, the Salmon Mediterranean and the Free Range Chicken Breast stuffed with roasted squash, sage and goat cheese in a port wine demi-glaze. However, being in a Greek restaurant, I am beholden to the lamb. I choose the Roasted Six-Bone Rack of New Zealand Lamb with a rosemary red wine demi-glaze. My guest picks the vegetarian main course, Roasted Vegetable Phyllo, a baked pastry with Mediterranean vegetables and goat cheese. The lamb is cooked to perfection. The vegetable accompaniment of bok choy, peppers, cauliflower and choice of potato or rice are generous and delicious.

While I am usually reluctant to share dessert, we are feeling nearly full and decide to share the suggested Crème Brûlée. It comes just the way I like it with enough burnt sugar on top to skate on.

As Paul shows us out at the end of the evening, I wonder if other people in the restaurant think that we too are long-time patrons. In any case, after our meal tonight we are bound to be.

*Photos by Greg Aspa, www.ourcapital.ca