Honouring Ganges

All roads on Saltspring Island, say the locals, lead to the village of Ganges, the geographical and spiritual centre of the most popular of all the Gulf Islands.

Ganges owes its origins to the flagship of the Royal Navy’s Pacific Station, the HMS Ganges, which first landed on Saltspring in the mid-1800s and was the last British battleship commissioned for duty in foreign waters.

Discovered by the British, it only makes sense that Ganges has evolved into the Springtime in Ganges (Courtesy of Barnyard Graphics Inc.)pinnacle of polite society. Located at various shops and businesses in Ganges and throughout Saltspring Island, are “honour boxes”—boxes that sit unattended at businesses with a slot where payment is voluntarily made for goods purchased. Based on the old-fashioned honour system, these boxes speak to the integrity of the islanders.

“It’s not unusual,” says long-time resident David Fry, “for an honour box to have over a thousand dollars in it at the end of a busy Saturday and remain untouched.”

No one in Ganges really knows how long the honour system has been in effect but islanders have taken it one step further with the introduction of their own currency in 2001— Saltspring Island Dollars. As Canada’s only local legal-tender currency in circulation, the goal of the Saltspring currency, which is available on a one-to-one exchange with the Canadian dollar, is to raise money for a variety of worthwhile community projects while promoting local business and goodwill. The Saltspring Island Dollars feature limited edition island art that renders the bills collectible after a two-year expiry date.

Ganges Harbour (Courtesy of
Barnyard Graphics Inc.)Whether using Canadian or Saltspring Island Dollars, there are numerous opportunities for residents and visitors to support the thriving Ganges economy. With over 225 farms producing sheep, chicken, llamas, cheese, fruit and vegetables, and a burgeoning vineyard scene, Saltspring proudly claims its place as the Organic Gardening Capital of Canada. Most of the farmers and growers can be seen milling about at the popular Saturday Saltspring Market in Ganges while their honour boxes take care of business transactions. The bustling weekend market is full of local personalities, artisans, gifted craftspeople and talented musicians who perform alongside impromptu dance or theatre skits.

The annual September Fall Fair, held just outside of Ganges, is a two-day event that attracts thousands of visitors who enjoy the display of prize-winning livestock, fruits and vegetables, and competitive events such as equestrian riding.

But there’s more to Ganges than honour boxes and local currency. First and foremost, Ganges is the epicentre of an island populated with 10,000 year-round eclectic artists, farmers, entrepreneurs and other residents whose laid back, easy-going attitude fosters an atmosphere of relaxation and contentment.

“There is an integrity here that you can’t find elsewhere,” says Fry. “A return to values that keeps people coming back.”

Crafts, food, art, music, dance and theatre are all a
part of the popular Saturday Saltspring Market in
Ganges (Courtesy of Barnyard Graphics Inc.)Here, pedestrians and cyclists saunter from restaurant to bakery to art gallery, and stop in at all the quaint shops in between. Visitors can pick up a Studio Tour Map and take a self-guided tour of over 30 artisan and artist studios showcasing their best work. Ganges offers an easy island lifestyle and a spirit defined by the Saltspring Island Golf Club whose policy welcomes the public on a first-come, first-served basis.

All roads on the island may lead to Ganges, but with 182 square kilometres of shoreline and 22 beaches, Saltspring’s nautical feel is best captured in it’s famous Landmark Mural painted by two local artists on a retired can buoy in Ganges. No trip is complete without a visit to the buoy that used to mark a spot 420 kilometres up the coast at a location known to the Coast Guard as Delta 10. The mural now marks the entrance to Centennial Wharf in Ganges and depicts orcas, salmon, cod, octopus —all the wonders that can be seen on and below the water near the island.

According to local Native legend, the island of Saltspring also possesses “healing properties.” Indeed, for the weary, stressed-out traveller, Ganges offers dozens of healing and pampering retreats, holistic centres and more quaint bed and breakfast establishments per capita than anywhere else in Canada. Just one more reason why visitors to Ganges might come for a day but stay for a blissful, restorative lifetime.