A Cut Above

Count on an unforgettable dining experience when you visit the omakase bar at Tojo’s, the legendary Vancouver restaurant now acclaimed as one of North America’s finest sources of Japanese cuisine. But be prepared to forego a menu, as omakase dishes are prepared for you spontaneously. The term translates literally to ‘Chef, I’m in your hands’.

Certainly, at Tojo’s omakase bar, you are in good hands. This is evident early in our visit when we meet our neighbour dining Tojo-san. (Tourism BC)at the bar with us. Dennis Wong, aka Mr. Wednesday, has for the past 30 years returned each Wednesday night for Tojo’s creations, dating back to when Tojo-san was head chef at Jinya’s.

Tojo-san – Chef Hidekazu Tojo – is credited with making Vancouver the sushi-iest city in North America. He created the California roll, the BC roll and the Northern Lights roll, among other favourites. But at Tojo’s you can also expect innovative versions of the finest Japanese cuisine, ranging far beyond sushi—many of Tojo’s delectable dishes are actually cooked!

Word of mouth and rave reviews have made Tojo’s a stop for the rich and famous, many of who head straight for the omakase bar. “You really get interesting people sitting here,” says Mr. Wednesday. “Some of them fly in just for the meal!”

Despite Vancouver’s many fine restaurants, Tojo’s is the only one listed in the New York Times’ best-seller, 1,000 Things to Do Before I Die. Thankfully, we did—and we are still savouring the memory of the spontaneous creations du jour served during our visit, including dishes of tender and tangy scallops, velvety sablefish, delicate matsutake (pine mushroom) soup and tiny apple-banana spring rolls with sweet green-tea ice cream.

One of the greatest pleasures of the omakase bar is watching Tojo-san at work. Flanked with chefs trained in Japan, Tojo is a genial host, smiling and chatting as he wields his razor-sharp knives with flare and agility. He doesn’t wear his reading glasses in the kitchen. Tojo is a master of his craft, and his wonderful creations are testament to his flawless vision.

Despite Tojo’s renown (he cooks in Dubai this March), his chefs are encouraged to develop their own styles, says Mr. Wednesday. “They stay because he lets them be creative.”

The Omakase Bar at Tojo’s. (Gary Hubbs)

Though the atmosphere at the bar is both spontaneous and relaxed, Tojo-san is passionate about each and every detail. “Safety comes first,” he says earnestly. And quality is key. That means that he prepares only seasonal, healthy ingredients, including wild fish. “After you eat this food,” he adds, “you will feel good next day.”

You can always order straight off Tojo’s menu, but do consider the omakase bar. Just don’t expect the same meal twice. “I love the adventure,” says Mr. Wednesday, knowing each meal at Tojo’s omakase bar will be both first-rate and unique.