The Call of the Coast: Great B.C. sport fishing
With some 25,000 kilometres of coastline to explore, British Columbia offers some of the world’s best sport fishing. D.C. Reid introduces you to the joys of the sport and some excellent coastal destinations.
When I first began travelling British Columbia’s coast on sport fishing assignments, I was awestruck by its magnificence and the abundance of fish and wildlife. Over the years our fertile salt waters have delivered forth more salmon than I could have ever imagined.
top: Eager anglers head out from the docks at Langara
Fishing Lodge (Robert Leon); bottom: D.C. Reid with the one
that didn’t get away, a 22-kilogram Chinook (Mark White)Unusual catches include a Coho that snagged on a downrigger release clip beside the boat, and a Pink Salmon that launched itself out of the water and landed in my fish bucket. I once pursued a Chinook so large—more than 22 kilograms—that my fishing companion and I had to tie two fishing rods together to reel it in. These wondrous experiences along with many memorable conventional catches have kept me coming back to the coast each summer for more fishing adventures.
Many saltwater anglers spend their years motoring local reefs and only dream about being at a fishing resort someday, plumbing the ocean depths. But making that dream a reality is easier than you might think. Local resorts offer enticing package deals for excursions north to the invigorating saltwater fishing grounds of British Columbia. Some spectacular resorts are just a morning’s drive north from the province’s capital, Victoria. One such destination is Campbell River, which lies at the junction point of the largest salmon migrations in the province. More secluded destinations are just a short flight away.
Imagine a spot of rugged beauty and seclusion where the only other people on the water are fellow guests from the lodge where you’re staying. Imagine heaps of fish.
Most areas of the coast have abundant runs of all five species of salmon this year. And they are as large as you can imagine. Chinook, known as King Salmon, Tyee or Smiley may exceed 30 kilograms and Coho may grow to half that size. Chum Salmon are known for combining the brute strength of Chinook and the aerial abilities of Coho. Pink Salmon are the easiest to catch, a bonanza for young anglers. The prized Sockeye are as beautiful to watch as to catch.
Large-eyed and largemouth bottom fish cruise the ocean reefs, including halibut that can grow to 181 kilograms. Their younger kin, at 9 to 18 kilograms, have earned the nickname ‘chickens’ as a result of their delicious taste. You’ll also find largemouth ling cod and 35 species of rockfish, including the brightest of them all—the brilliant, rosy-hued red snapper.
When you have finished your trip, you can have your holiday catch flash-frozen in vacuum-packed, sealed plastic bags that will keep them in perfect condition for dinners many months into the winter. Local hotels offer package rates for pre- and post-vacation nights, if needed; free vehicle parking during the trip and freezer service upon return.
Go North: Angling in the Queen Charlotte Islands
Langara Island lies at the top end of the 150-island archipelago that comprises the Queen Charlotte Islands and is so far north that it affords views of the Alaska Panhandle. Langara Fishing Lodge offers everything needed for a civilized sojourn in the wild and remote magnificence of British Columbia’s westernmost islands. Clients step from amphibious aircraft and settle into this comfortable oasis, with plenty of time to get acclimatized to their new surroundings. When ready to fish, guests visit the lodge’s warm room to don floater outfits and then launch into the fish-filled waters in bright red-and-white boats.
Family fishing fun at Painter’s Lodge
(Oak Bay Marine Group)
Langara Island rests in a Pacific salmon nursery area. The lodge, in the secure and protected Henslung Cove, places the angler in the middle of nature’s largesse: all five species of salmon cruise from the open ocean to feed in the sheltered Island waters, just minutes from the lodge.
John McCulloch, Vice President of Operations at Langara Fishing Adventures, sees many tourists converted to anglers. “Some clients come simply to experience life at the edge of the earth,” he says, “then they go out fishing and end up being eager anglers.” His decades-long tenure with Langara has only increased his wonder. “Each year, I am still amazed by the water’s abundance. It’s a pleasure to offer the same wonder to others in their first experience on the west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands.”
Other natural bounties dazzle the senses. Various species of whales, skates and sunfish coast the waters. Humpback whales call Langara Island their summer feeding ground; you may catch sight of these stupendous creatures leaping clear of their watery worlds, as high as 10 feet above the water. Add to that dozens of bald eagles adorning the windswept Sitka spruce and dolphins in pods that may exceed 1000 mammals, zipping through the sea at 50 kilometres per hour.
“The waters around Langara Island are so abundant with fish,” says John, “that an average day here would be comparable to a spectacular day in most other locations. Coastal bays and inlets swell with Chinook from early May through September. Thus far in 2006, the halibut fishing has been the best the lodge has seen in more than 20 years of operation.
After exercising your biceps raising halibut of more than 45 kilos, Langara Fishing Lodges offer several ways to massage the aches away. Lean back at the end of the day in one of two lounges, three hot tubs or several steam rooms and swap fish stories with other anglers.
Campbell River: The Salmon Capital
Painter’s Lodge in Campbell River
(Oak Bay Marine Group)
For those whose idea of an outdoor vacation includes being close to both nature and city life, Campbell River—the Salmon Capital of the World—is an attractive destination. Painter’s Lodge on the foreshore of the Campbell River estuary offers an irresistible array of activities.
Jill Smillie, Director of Marketing for the resort’s parent company, Oak Bay Marine Group, puts it this way: “We have so many activities that you may sample more than one each day. For instance, the family can try salmon fishing in the morning, then rent kayaks in the afternoon and paddle along with seals.”
Many Chinook reside just across the channel at Cape Mudge. Some are moving north to the open ocean, others are on their way back to their southern rivers. The summer runs include the largest run of Sockeye in B.C., and from late September onward, the area is a great saltwater source for Chum Salmon in peak condition. “Painter’s has a rich tradition of salmon fishing,” Jill points out. The resort and docks lie just north of the Tyee pool where guests can compete for a coveted membership in the Tyee Club.
Langara Fishing Adventures: South Terminal Building, 201-4440 Cowley Crescent, Richmond, BC V7B 1B8; Phone: 1.800.668.7544; www.langara.com; info@langara.com
Oak Bay Marine Group: 1327 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC V8S 2N4; Toll Free: 1.800.663.7090; www.obmg.com.
“We have plenty of other activities, too”, says Jill. “The whole family might want to try a whale watching tour or wildlife adventure. They can always visit the Aveda spa or relax in the pool and hot tubs.” Or you can visit their sister resort, April Point Resort & Spa on Quadra Island, reached by a complimentary water taxi from Painter’s Lodge. Besides spa and massage facilities and a fine dining restaurant, April Point also provides guided fishing trips. The beauty of Painter’s Lodge is that one can enjoy both properties and their dining options on the same vacation. “We have made the vacation experience affordable for everyone, with unique packages incorporating, golf, tennis and a long list of other things to do,” says Jill.
A sport fishing trip returns much more than the fish wrestled from the ocean. You may recall eagles in trees under moonlight, a seal lounging beside your boat or a pod of dolphins seemingly flying in a line for miles. While many anglers go on their first trip for the fishing, there are a multitude of wonderful sights and experiences to savour.